A recent alteration project entailed a customer’s original yet quite thin yellow gold wedding band (top ring in left picture) that she wanted to make thicker and more substantial without having to completely replace the piece for sentimentality reasons. In order to fulfill her wishes, we ordered a thicker yellow gold band (bottom ring in left picture) that would fit inside of the original ring. For the bands to fit together and on her finger, they had to be stretched and shaped together(right picture) via a process called annealing, which entails scientific knowledge and precision to achieve the desired result.
Annealing is a heat treatment process in metalworking that is often used on the jeweler’s bench for a number of reasons. It involves heating the metal with a blowtorch or using a kiln for a larger job. It must be heated at the perfect temperature to ensure maximum softness to make it malleable and workable, with each metal having its own temperature range. Platinum requires the highest heat at 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, white gold at 1350, yellow gold at 1250, with sterling silver requiring the least amount at 1250 degrees. When the metal achieves maximum softness, it allows for shaping and bending a piece of jewelry to alter it to its desired form. Once the metal has been heated for a predetermined period of time, it is crucial to let the metal slowly cool until it returns to its normal temperature.
In addition to increased malleability, annealing facilitates what is known as “workability” for the metal. With the metal heated to its maximum softness, it also allows for finer details to be added to the metal, such as engraving, embossing, or pressing designs without causing cracking or fracture. Annealing also helps to relieve stress that occurs to the metal through repetitive hammering, bending or forging. The molecules become stressed and unhappy with all of the “manhandling”, and perhaps the most interesting aspect of annealing is that achieving that perfect heat temperature actually causes the molecules to be happy again, preventing cracks or distortions that result from the stress. There are many uses for annealing in jewelry making and repair, and we are fortunate to be able to perform this process in our workshop to shape, heal, and transform our customers’ most precious and sentimental pieces.
The Infinity Gauntlet
Whether you are a Marvel comic book aficionado, a Marvel Cinematic Universe (known as the MCU to the hardcore) devotee, or simply a fan of the custom jewelry design process, then you can understand our elation to “assemble” this project. This ring was commissioned by a high school friend of Austin’s as a wedding ring for her husband in the form of the Infinity Gauntlet from the Avengers comic books, TV shows, movies, and any other medium in which Earth’s Mightiest Heroes may appear. In fact, Austin’s two sons are such avid Marvel enthusiasts that the whole family dressed up as the superheroes for Halloween, so needless to say Austin was exceptionally thrilled at the prospect of this project.
For those of you who may not be familiar with the Infinity Gauntlet, some background information might help to clarify its vital significance in the Marvel universe. To make an intricately complicated story short, the Infinity Gauntlet is a giant metal hand that was created for the evil alien, Thanos, as part of his attempt to conquer the universe. The Gauntlet was designed to hold all six Infinity Stones (more about these later) in order to harness and channel all of their individual powers into one. Each stone has its own purpose, and when they are all utilized at once, they can basically execute any feat imaginable. Once Thanos found all six Infinity Stones and placed them in the Gauntlet on his left hand, all he had to do was snap his fingers and half of all life in the universe disappeared. Honestly, if you haven’t watched the movies, we recommend you do so as soon as possible. It is the preferred family activity in the Capone household and a wildly hilarious and exciting ride.
As for the design and fabrication process for the ring, there were many steps involved to achieve creating a product that would closely resemble the Infinity Gauntlet while also maintaining our commitment to creating a piece using only the best quality metals and stones. Once Austin was approached with the idea, the first step entailed doing some research to come up with the best concept for the design. Consultations are typically more effective in person, but due to the fact that this client lives in California, we were able to grasp basic ideas virtually. Since the Infinity Gauntlet already exists, it was more a matter of creating an inspiration from the original as opposed to an actual glove that fit over one’s hand (not to say that it couldn’t be done!).
Next came the sketch. Truman’s artistic skills come in quite handy when we want to give our clients a visual of the concept that we have created in our minds. Peep his sketch below.
Once the sketch was approved, we moved on to picking out the gemstones to represent each Infinity Stone. It was our goal from the start to keep the ring as accurate as possible in terms of order in the Gauntlet in addition to the colors of each stone. We conspired to choose the stones that were not only of the highest quality but would also radiate the utmost vibrancy. Each Infinity Stone has its own color and its own power. Below explains the power and color of each in addition to the gemstone we chose to represent it:
Orange - Soul - Orange Chalcedony
Red - Reality - Tourmaline
Blue - Space - Blue Topaz
Purple - Power - Amethyst
Green - Time - Emerald
Yellow - Mind - Yellow Sapphire
The stones that we sourced were all originally different shapes and sizes, so we had to have them cut in order to accurately fit the design of the ring. Once the stones were selected, we then chose the metals to incorporate into the bezels and band. We decided to fashion the band in silver while adding several different colors of gold to highlight the many layers of complicated machinery that bedeck the original Gauntlet.
Constructing a wax model was the next step in the process so that we could show the client a 3D rendering of the ring for them to try on. It gave us a good idea of how it would fit along the contours of his finger. Once that step was approved, the wax was then used to create a silicone mold, which forms the gold in the casting process.
One might think that once the casting was sent back the work was practically finished, but there was still much more to be done. First, a number of layers of metal were polished. After, the platinum bezels for the stones were fabricated to be extremely secure and to withstand heavy wear for a long period of time. On the outer edge of the bezel, a second one was fabricated in gold to help emphasize the colors of the stones while also adding some hues and design to the ring. In the band of the ring, a combination of different color metals were used, including silver, yellow gold, rose gold, green gold, and platinum.
Once the conglomeration of all the metals on the band was complete, we moved on to setting the stones. Each stone was set in a platinum bezel with a low-profile height in order to lessen the risk of damage. Hours of engraving were then devoted to this piece. From the extraordinary detail on the side panels to the milgrain and etching throughout the entire surface. Additionally, a process called oxidation (also known as antiquing) was then employed to give the ring a finished aged and regal look to it.
We are so thankful to have this opportunity to be a part of such a cool design that also happens to be associated with something that is so loved by our family. Avengers Assemble!
Virginia Gemstones
It might be a little known fact that some gemstones are mined right here in Virginia. We recently purchased some new stones that hail from our beautiful home state, and below is some information about the ones that are pictured above (order is from left to right):
Amazonite - This beautiful blue-green square(ish) stone is mined in Amelia County. In addition to being pleasing to the eye, it is said to enhance intuition, psychic powers, creativity, intellect, and psychic ability.
Unakite - This mottled pink and green oval stone came from right up the road in Lexington, Rockbridge County. It is typically found in the valleys of rivers after having been washed down from the Blue Ridge mountains. Unakite helps balance emotions and relieve stress.
Rhodonite - The middle stone that comes to a point at the top is a type of rhodonite that originated from Fluvanna County. The stone next to it is a Pink Rhodonite, which comes from the same location. They come in pink and red colors and often contain black manganese oxide veins running through them. Rhodonite is believed to relieve anxiety and is also a symbol of grace and elegance.
Limonite after Pyrite - This distinct gemstone gets its name from its "birth" process and comes from Schuyler, Nelson County. First, the pyrite starts to decompose due to chemical weathering, and the iron in the rock starts to rust. Once the rust has begun, limonite starts to pseudomorph into, i.e. take the shape of, the pyrite. This square stone has a brownish red color with tiny holes, which gives it a distinctively dramatic look. Pyrite is typically used as a shield to defend against negative energy while limonite helps to support physical strength and virility.
Custom Engagement Rings for a Swedish Couple
We have been fortunate to have a diverse demographic of customers over the years here in small town Blacksburg, VA. Learning about and adhering to other cultures’ customs during the engagement and marriage process is something that we have enjoyed being included in. While wedding and engagements rings are often a universal symbol of love and commitment, there are cultural variations of how they are presented, chosen, and designed. The rings shown in the picture below are ones that we designed for a couple from Sweden.
Whereas the tradition in many cultures is to propose with a diamond ring, the custom in Sweden has been for both men and women to wear simple gold bands as their engagement rings. Afterwards, a diamond ring or another band is typically purchased for the woman to receive at the wedding. Although the bands have traditionally been simple and plain, the look is evolving to include more ornate designs that incorporate individual style and flair.
For these particular rings, the custom process started when the customer brought in a drawing of their own design. We used their sketch to develop a wax model of the ring with hand carvings, which was then cast in 18k yellow gold. There was some difficulty in determining finger size due to differences in sizing and number conversions, but we thankfully figured it out. Next, some milgrain and other engraving details were added around the edges, and two small round diamonds were set in one of the rings. Then the bands were polished, and the couple was ready to start their matrimonial journey. They emailed us the picture from Sweden along with the following thoughtful message:
Dear Faith,
We would like to send our thanks to you for making our rings. We are
very happy with how they turned out and they both fit perfectly on our
fingers. Thank you for making our design come true. We are now happily
engaged and will be married in the summer.
Best wishes from Sweden,
And thank YOU for allowing us Americans to be a part of your Swedish engagement and design process! :)
Custom Design Onyx and Ruby Gent's Ring
We typically don't carry men's rings other than wedding bands in stock. It's difficult because there is such a wide variety of styles that we normally just custom design them. This particular concept was exciting and out of the ordinary, which is always a fun creative process to be a part of.
This ring was commissioned by a local artist and retired professor of Virginia Tech. Donning a ring on almost every finger, he really wanted this particular one to stand out but still blend in with his look and personality. He sports heavy vests, hats, a large bushy beard, as well as silver chains with skull and wing medallions hanging from them. You know, just your run of the mill custom design request!
Having long artistic fingers, we knew this ring needed to be quite large. He deeply admires Native American silver motifs, which he wanted included into the design. Even though he prefers turquoise, it was decided a dark cabochon onyx would hold up better from daily wear and tear. Because he loves the color red and wanted the ring to have its own personality, a small natural ruby was added to the side serving as a talisman for passion and wealth.
A hand-carved wax model was created to adhere to the shape and size of his hand as well as to the proportion of the stones. Having made several original indigenous-inspired designs, Kirk carved the tribal graphics, which were derived from Native American, Aztec, and Caribbean roots, around the shank and bezel. It was then cast in sterling silver, the stones were set, the ring was polished and ready for wear!
Custom Three Stone Engagement Ring and Band Set
One of the most interesting and sometimes complicated aspects of custom design in jewelry is finding a way to aesthetically incorporate old stones or metal into new pieces. Jewelry can hold a sentimental or nostalgic value to a person or family, and while a customer may find an inherited piece of jewelry tired or outdated, they don't necessarily want to trade in the piece for a brand new one. There are not many industries where this type of "recycling" (for lack of a better word) is possible. It is rather gratifying to be able to redesign pieces that the customer enjoys wearing and that still maintain the sentimentality.
We were recently commissioned to redesign an engagement ring for a couple that has been married for some time. They wanted to incorporate the diamond from the previous ring as well as one recently inherited. They wanted a three stone ring, so we had to locate a third stone that would match in cut, carat, color, and clarity. Matching stones can be challenging, but fortunately we successfully accomplished the task! The customers also requested a more vintage-looking piece with the diamonds set as low as possible to the finger. This is the wax of the ring with the stones set in it:
We decided to go with a bezel setting, which is the whole diamond surrounded by metal. While this is one of the safest settings for a gemstone, a drawback is that it can reduce the light coming in, which inhibits the shine of the stone. Therefore, we put tiny cut outs in the sides of the bezel to bring in more light. Since this ring is set in platinum, it is more dense and can better support the diamond with the cut outs, which made us feel more comfortable in doing it. Another way that we were able to integrate the old engagement ring was to remove the part holding the diamond, the head, to make a plain white gold band that would fit nicely next to the new ring. Here are the finished rings:
Custom Engagement Ring for Justin and Sarah
Justin came to Austin with several pictures of engagement rings for his girlfriend, Sarah. He wanted his own ring to be unique, so he decided to have a custom ring made. He had his own middle stone already and wanted side stones to match. He requested sketches before a wax was made. Three different designs were created:
Justin liked different elements of each design, so a wax was created that incorporated a combination:
Since Justin and Sarah live in Charlotte, photos of the wax were stealthily sent to Justin for final approval. We slightly adjusted the size of the band, and because this ring is set in White Gold, it was sent out for casting:
The stones were set, the ring was polished, Justin proposed in the Outer Banks, and Sarah said YES! Congratulations to our best friends!
Making the Steger Award, A Poetry Prize for Virginia Tech Students
For the past 10 years, we have been commissioned by our longtime customer and friend, Nikki Giovanni, to make an award that is presented to the winner of the Steger Poetry Prize. We hammer and forge sterling silver to create a magnifier statue meant for a desk. The design changes slightly each year. Setting the magnifying glass in a bezel is always a challenge - it is equivalent to setting a giant gemstone. A big congratulations to this year's winner!
Read more about the award below:
http://www.vtnews.vt.edu/articles/2015/04/042915-clahs-stegerpoetry.html
Custom Antique Flatware Bracelets
We often have customers coming in and asking us what they can do with antique silverware that they have inherited. Since flatware comes as a set, it is unlikely that you would want to split it up among family members. We recently had a customer who had a set of flatware and pictures she found on the Internet of similar designs. They were her grandmother's, and she wanted a bracelet made for her and her sister. The fork tines were melted and manipulated into heart shapes. While the engraving was already etched on the fork, it can always be added afterwards for a personal touch. Rings can be made out of smaller forks or spoons as well. This is a great way to maintain the sentimentality of a common family heirloom. It's personal yet stylish at the same time!
Custom Design Yellow and Green Emerald Necklace and Earrings
A customer recently came in with an idea for a custom Yellow and Green Emerald necklace for their 55th(!) wedding anniversary, fittingly also known as the Emerald Anniversary. They brought in their own emeralds and their own sketch of the layout they had in mind, which Faith adapted into her own sketch (below). The necklace was to have a minimal amount of yellow gold showing, which is why prongs were used. Additionally, they wanted it to be worn at different lengths, so it was designed so that they could adjust the length to be 16, 18, or 20 inches. A pair of matching earrings were also made. Both the necklace and earrings turned out absolutely stunning!
Faith's sketch
The necklace
The earrings